Natural fibers. Fibers and tissues of animal origin Technology presentation natural fibers of animal origin

Date: 13.10.2021

Cotton fibers Cotton is a vegetable fiber obtained from cotton bolls. When the fruit ripens, the cotton boll opens. The fiber together with the raw cotton seeds is collected for cotton collection points, from where it is sent to the ginnery, where the fibers are separated from the seeds. This is followed by the separation of fibers by length: the longest fibers from 2025 mm are cotton-fiber, and shorter lint hairs are used for the manufacture of cotton wool, as well as for the production of explosives.

Cotton fabrics The assortment of cotton fabrics is very diverse, it includes the largest number of types and articles. Fabrics are different in structure, type of finish, properties, external design and have versatile applications. Cotton fabrics are characterized by good wear resistance, hygiene, beautiful appearance, color fastness, they are well tolerated by water and heat treatments. The disadvantages of these fabrics are increased creasing and deformability in wear. For the production of cotton fabrics, all types of weaving are used.

Wool fibers Wool is the hairline of animals: sheep, goats, camels. The woolen cover is removed from the sheep with special scissors or machines. The length of the wool fibers is from 20 to 450 mm. They are trimmed with an almost integral unbreakable mass, which is called RUNE.

Silk fibers Natural silk is obtained by unwinding silkworm cocoons. A cocoon is a dense, tiny egg-like shell that the caterpillar coils tightly around itself before becoming a pupa. The four stages of silkworm development: 1. Testicle. 2. Caterpillar. 3.Doll. 4. Butterfly.

The silkworm, or silkworm caterpillar and butterfly, play an important economic role in silk production. The caterpillar feeds exclusively on mulberry leaves (mulberry tree). A closely related species, the wild silkworm, lives in East Asia: in the northern regions of China and the southern regions of the Primorsky Territory of Russia. The silkworm is the only fully domesticated insect not found naturally in the wild. Its females have even "forgotten how" to fly. The adult insect is a fat butterfly with whitish wings and a span of up to 6 cm. The caterpillars of this silkworm eat only the leaves of the mulberry or mulberry tree. Silkworm caterpillars curl cocoons, the shells of which consist of a continuous silk thread with a length of m and up to 1500 m in the largest cocoons.

A bit of history Ancient China is considered the homeland of silk. According to many legends, the culture of sericulture emerged around the 5th millennium BC. on the banks of the Great Yellow River. Most noteworthy is the legend of Lei Zu, the first wife of the Yellow Emperor, the legendary ancestor of the Chinese, who lived in the central regions of China about 5,000 years ago. After moving to her husband from the southwestern part of the country, Lei Zu brought with her the secret of silkworm cultivation. First, she taught people how to breed silkworms, untangle a cocoon, and thus supply themselves with clothing. In the Celestial Empire, there was no more such a misfortune as scratches and abrasions, and subsequent generations began to bring offerings to Lei Zu as the founder of sericulture ... in great condition. This means that silkworm breeding existed about two thousand years before the birth of Christ (the late Neolithic era), and the production of silk years ago was already a developed industry - this is the age of the discovered remains of fabric!

More than 2,000 years ago, Emperor Wu Di sent his messenger westward to pave the way for the silk caravans. This is how the Great Silk Road appeared. Naturally, the secret of silk making in China was guarded with special trepidation. Hence, by the way, the absolutely phantasmagoric ideas about the origin of silk threads among ancient thinkers: they say, they grow on trees, and they are a product of the life of an animal with large horns, and it's not threads at all, but the fluff of special birds ... For smuggling mulberry leaves trees and silkworm larvae, according to Chinese laws, a painful death was assumed. But the thirst for profit (and silk was literally worth its weight in gold, pound for pound) took its toll. Around the 5th century, silk was exported from China, and at the same time its production began in several countries of the world. Again, according to legend, one cunning Indian Raja wooed a Chinese princess. And as a dowry he desired - guess what? And the poor bride brought silkworm larvae and mulberry seeds ... right in her high bridal hairstyle. In the Mediterranean countries, the production of silk fabric became widespread at about the same time when silkworm gren (eggs) were first delivered to Constantinople from China. The role of pilgrims of goodwill was performed by the monks, who hid the larvae in the voids of their staves. In the Middle Ages, silk became one of the main industries in Venice (XIII century), in Genoa and Florence (XIV century), in Milan (XV century). And already in the 18th century, throughout Western Europe, their own silk was woven with might and main.

The Old North Road was initiated by Emperor Wudi, who needed thoroughbred horses for the army. I saw such horses during my embassy to Central Asia in the years. BC. dignitary Zhang Qian. He also reported to the emperor about the absence of silk-weaving craft in other countries and advised the emperor to export silk abroad in exchange for fine horses, as well as sweet fruits, wine, etc. In 121 BC. the first camel caravan with silk and bronze mirrors headed to the Fergana oasis through the Turfan depression along the spurs of the Tien Shan. But the unfolding trade was interrupted by ruinous uprisings in that area in the years. AD However, trade soon resumed, but this time along a new path - the South Road.

Natural fibers of animal origin.

MBOU "Ziminskaya secondary school - kindergarten" Razdolnensky district, Republic of Crimea, technology teacher of the highest qualification category: Shcherba Irina Vasilievna

Epigraph of our lesson

“Tell me and I will forget. Show me and I will remember. Give it a try - and I will understand. "

Chinese proverb

Materials science studies the properties of textile fibers.
All textile fibers are divided into natural and chemical.

Natural fibers of animal origin

Wool fibers are the hair of various animals: sheep, camels, goats, llamas, etc., however, sheep wool is the most widely used (95%). The fine wool of merino and angora goats is considered the best. The wool taken from the sheep is called rune ... Camel wool is warm, it is an excellent insulator that maintains a constant body temperature. Alpaca (llama) wool - has all the properties of camel wool. "Kviviut" - musk ox wool is 7-8 times softer and warmer than cashmere.

Until now, no one knows exactly why the ancient fleece was called golden. Perhaps the wool of the ancient Colchis rams really had a golden hue, or perhaps the inhabitants of ancient Colchis mined gold with the help of sheep's skins: they spread the skin at the bottom of the stream, and the hairs held back the golden grains of sand brought by the water. Of course, then it was not yet known that the fleece itself contains gold ...
And recently, the British Nuclear Research Center decided to determine the chemical composition of sheep's wool. Particularly sensitive devices have found gold in the fibers. Found it in the protein structure of hair and other animals. Moreover, the gold content in different animals is approximately the same. Unfortunately, so far none of the scientists has been able to answer the question: where does the gold in wool come from and what is it for?

Wool is a natural fiber of animal origin

During excavations of burial mounds, ancient woolen fabrics were discovered. After lying several thousand years underground, some of them surpassed modern threads in strength. The bulk of the wool is obtained from sheep; merino wool produces fine wool. Sheep are sheared once or in some cases twice a year. from one sheep receive from 2 to 10 kg. wool. From 100 kg. raw wool get 40 - 60 kg. clean. Camel wool is used for the manufacture of outerwear and blankets. In addition to sheep, in America they used wool of rabbits, llamas, bison, in Asia - camels and goats. Before being sent to textile factories, wool is subjected to primary processing: it is sorted, i.e. select fibers for quality; shake - loosen and remove contaminating impurities; washed with hot water and soap and soda; dried in tumble dryers. Then yarn is made, and from it in textile factories - fabric. In the finishing industry, fabrics are dyed in different colors and applied to fabrics in different patterns. Dress, suit, coat fabrics are made from woolen fibers.

The legend of silk

Legend has it that the Chinese empress Heng-ling-chi (2600 BC) was the first to discover this wonderful fiber. She accidentally dropped the cocoon into hot water and saw that silk threads had separated from the softened cocoon. The Empress got the idea that the thread that the caterpillar wraps around itself can be unwound and woven into a cloth. She was amazed at the beauty and strength of the silk thread, collecting thousands of cocoons and woven fabric from them. The fabric is wonderfully thin, light, beautiful. Clothes were sewn to the emperor. So the silkworm butterfly gave silk to the whole world, and the Empress was elevated to the rank of a deity for a valuable gift. Silk was worth its weight in gold; a roll of silk cloth was supposed to be a double measure of gold by weight. This is how the ancient silkworm culture was born, based on the vital activity of the silkworm, which feeds on the leaves of the white mulberry (mulberry).

The production of silk fabrics has been known since the third millennium BC. in China - the Great Chinese Silk Road.

The raw material for the production of natural silk fabrics is silk fiber - a product of the secretion of the glands of the caterpillars of the mulberry and oak silkworm. The cocoon thread has a length of 500 to 1500 m and a thickness of 10-12 microns. When unwinding several cocoons, raw silk is obtained, from which twisted silk is produced, which is used for the manufacture of fabrics, silk threads.
In 121 BC. the first camel caravan with silk and bronze mirrors was sent. The Silk Road is a system of caravan routes that have linked the cultural centers of the vast continent between China and the Mediterranean for over a thousand years. Since the II century. AD silk became the main commodity carried by Chinese merchants to distant countries. Lightweight, compact and therefore especially convenient for transportation, it attracted the attention of buyers along the entire route of caravans, despite its high cost. Silk fabrics gave an unusual feeling of softness, sophistication, beauty and exoticism. They strove to possess and admire him. Egyptian Queen Cleopatra loved luxurious robes made of this material.

Wool fiber properties

Woolen fibers are characterized by good heat-shielding properties, high wear resistance, high hygienic properties - hygroscopicity and air permeability, high dust holding capacity and shrinkage. Wool fibers are resistant to all organic solvents used in dry cleaning of clothes.

The strength of the wool fibers depends on the thickness and length (from 20 to 450 mm).
The color of the coat can be white, gray, red and black.
The shine of the coat depends on the size and shape of the scales.
The wool fiber has good elasticity. Wool items are not wrinkled.
The resistance of wool to sunlight is much higher than that of plant fibers.
When burning, the wool fibers are sintered, when the fibers are removed from the flame, their combustion stops, and a sintered black ball forms at the end of the wool thread. At the same time, the smell of burnt feathers is felt.

A B C D

Wool fiber structure

1 - scaly layer;
2 - cortical layer;
3 - core.

1 - down;
2 - transitional hair;
3 - awn;
4 - dead hair.

Silk fiber properties

The thickness of the cocoon thread is uneven throughout its length.
The strength of silk is higher than that of wool.
The color of the boiled cocoon threads is white, slightly creamy. At temperatures above 110 C, the fibers lose strength.
Natural silk has good hygroscopic properties.
Soft, shiny, beautiful-looking silk products have, however, low wear resistance and high cost.
It feels cool to the touch.
Silk breaks down faster when exposed to direct sunlight than other natural fibers.
During burning, silk fibers are sintered, when taken out of the flame, their burning stops. At the end, a black sintered ball is formed, easily rubbed, the smell of burnt feather is felt.

a - cocoon thread;
b - boiled silk

Wool

Silk

Wool is used to produce yarn, fabrics, knitwear, felted-felt products, etc.

Card number 1. Properties of wool fibers and fabrics made from them.

Length

2 - 45 cm.

Various, the thicker the fiber, the stronger

White, gray, red, black

Properties

Flaws

Good heat-shielding properties, high wear resistance, high hygienic properties - hygroscopicity, air permeability. Under the influence of heat and moisture, wool fiber acquires the ability to lengthen up to 60% or shrink

Dust holding capacity, shrinkage

After combustion, it forms a black lump, is rubbed with fingers, the smell of burnt feather remains

Dress, suit and coat fabrics are made: drape, gabardine, cashmere

Care of products

Wash by hand at t30C, with detergents, dry unfolded, iron at t150-160C through an iron

Card number 2. Properties of silk fibers and fabrics made from them

Length

500 - 1500m

Thickness - very thin, like a spider web, but very durable.

White, off-white.

Properties

Flaws

Possesses high hygroscopicity, air permeability. Elastic, therefore, the fabrics are not easily wrinkled, smooth, soft, beautiful, have a shine, and can be draped well.

They stretch, crumble, have significant shrinkage.

After burning, it forms a black lump, is rubbed with fingers, the smell of burnt feather remains.

Care of products

Wash by hand at t30 - 40C, rinse with water and vinegar. Squeeze lightly. Iron at t150 - 160C from the seamy side.

Comparison of wool fibers and natural silk

Wool

Fiber appearance

Natural silk

Rough matte

Thread break type

Crimped fiber brush

Smooth, shiny

Burning behavior of the thread

Straight fibers

Black ball, the smell of burnt feathers

Which of the animals provide the largest amount of all wool processed in textile mills?
Sheep provide the bulk of the wool.
How does the strength of the fabric depend on the thickness of the fiber?
The thicker the fibers, the stronger the fabric.
What colors are natural wool fibers?
Available in white, gray, pink and black.
What is the property of felting wool fibers?
Moisture and friction cause wool fibers to fall off.
What are the properties of wool fibers?
High hygroscopicity, heat-shielding properties, elasticity.
What textiles are made of wool?
Dress, costume, coat, felt, felt.

What is the purpose of silk pretreatment?
Hot steam treatment of cocoons to soften silk glue; winding threads from several cocoons at the same time.
How would you describe the properties of natural silk?
They are highly hygroscopic and breathable. Elastic, therefore, the fabrics are not easily wrinkled, smooth, soft, beautiful, have a shine, and can be draped well.
What fabrics are made from natural silk?
Produce dress, blouse fabrics crepe de chine, chiffon.

Description of the presentation for individual slides:

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NATURAL SEWING MATERIALS SCIENCE Section: Lesson topic: FIBER OF ANIMAL ORIGIN Developed by: Ishnazarova Tatyana Nikolaevna Technology teacher MAOU SOSH # 32 Ulan-Ude

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linen cotton chemical animal origin natural plant origin Textile fibers Classification of textile fibers Wool silk

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Wool, taken from sheep, almost whole, unbreakable mass is called a fleece. The thinnest, softest, crimped fiber is called fluff. A thicker, stiffer, less crimped fiber is called hair or wool.

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MERINOS WOOL (MERINOS) is wool taken from the withers of a merino sheep. Merino, a breed of fine-wool sheep. Merino wool is homogeneous and consists of very fine and soft downy fibers. It is long (hair length 6-8 cm per year), white, warm, and has excellent thermostatic properties. Due to natural curls, it is elastic.

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LAMA (LAMA. Llama wool consists of two layers: the upper protective hair and the undercoat (down). The undercoat is used for making elite clothing. With a full haircut, both layers are removed, and the wool is cleaned of the protective hair. When combing out, only the undercoat is obtained. Llama wool is different lightness and softness, the ability to perfectly retain heat (heat capacity) and provide comfort in a wide temperature range (thermostatic) .It does not cause allergic reactions, is capable of repelling water and, unlike other types of wool, regulate its moisture content in a range convenient for humans.

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ALPACA (ALPACA) is a type of llama. Alpacas are a rare animal; their dear wool is sheared by alpacas, unlike sheep, once a year. Alpaca wool has exceptional properties: it is light, soft, homogeneous and silky, very warm (7 times warmer than sheep wool), with high thermoregulatory properties; durable (3 times stronger than a sheep's), not prone to rolling, dumping and jamming; Unlike the scaly and therefore prickly fibers of sheep wool, alpaca fibers are smooth and comfortable to the touch.

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CAMEL (CAMEL) is the downy undercoat of the non-working Bactrian camel (Bactrian), which lives in Central and East Asia. The most valuable is the wool of the Mongolian Bactrian. Once a year, it is harvested (or combed out). Camel's wool is light (twice as light as sheep's), but at the same time, the most durable, elastic and warm. It protects well from moisture, and is also able to absorb and quickly evaporate it, leaving the body dry.

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CASHMERE is the finest down (undercoat) of a high-mountain cashmere goat that lives in the region of Tibet and in the province of Kashmir between India and Pakistan. To obtain fluff, the goat is not sheared, but manually combed out once a year, in the spring, during molting. Cashmere is prized for its exceptional softness, lightness, ability to keep warm and the absence of allergic reactions to it.

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MOHAIR (MOHAIR) - wool of angora goats living in Turkey (province of Angora), South Africa and the USA. Mohair is a luxurious natural fiber. No other wool has such a great long pile with a long lasting natural shine. Mohair products require delicate storage and careful care. They must be hung on hangers, in order to avoid the appearance of folds, do not expose to high temperatures and dry at room temperature; clean only dry, not forgetting that chemical treatment can shorten their service life.

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ANGORA - This is the fluff of Angora rabbits. Once upon a time, China, in response to Turkey's overvaluation of prices for the demanded wool of angora goats, released a softer and cheaper yarn called "Angora". As it turned out, it was the fluff of wild rabbits called Angora. Under these conditions, the Turks called the wool of the Angora goats "mohair", which in Arabic means "the chosen one." Subsequently, Angora rabbits began to be bred in Europe and the United States. Angora wool is extremely soft, very warm and fluffy, with a characteristic delicate pile. Products made from angora wool create unique comfort and are therefore very popular and in demand. However, angora wool also has its disadvantages: the fragile fastening of rabbit fluff in the yarn can cause abrasion of the fabric; the need to protect the angora from excessive moisture and to clean it only by chemical means.

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Wool fibers are available in lengths from 20 to 450 mm and in various thicknesses. The strength of wool fibers depends on their thickness and structure. The color of the coat can be white, gray, red and black. The shine of the coat depends on the size and shape of the scales. Wool fiber is highly hygroscopic and has good resilience and heat resistance. Due to its good elasticity, wool products do not wrinkle. The resistance of wool to sunlight is much higher than that of plant fibers. Reaction to combustion Wool fibers are sintered during combustion; when the fibers are removed from the flame, their combustion stops. At the end, a black sintered ball is formed, which is easily rubbed with your fingers. In the process of burning, the smell of burnt feather is felt. PROPERTIES OF WOOL FIBER

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Woolen fiber is used for the manufacture of dress, costume and coat fabrics. Thanks to felting, it is possible to make cloth, drape, felt, felt from wool, as well as other textile products. Woolen fabrics go on sale under the names: gabardine, cashmere, drape, cloth, tights and others.

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For the first time, the secret of making silk was discovered in China five thousand years ago. An ancient legend says that once Xi Ling Chi, the wife of the third emperor of China, Huang Di, who was also called the "Yellow Emperor", was drinking tea in the garden of the palace under the crown of a mulberry tree and a silkworm cocoon fell from the tree into her cup of tea. The young empress and her maids were extremely surprised to see the cocoon begin to unfold in the hot water, releasing a thin silk thread. Having become interested, the girl began to observe how the cocoon was unfolding. Xi Ling Chi was so impressed by the beauty and strength of the silk thread that she collected thousands of cocoons and from them weaved the emperor's clothes. So a tiny silkworm butterfly gave silk to all mankind, and the empress, in gratitude for such a valuable gift, was elevated to the rank of a deity.

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Domestic sheep have served man faithfully since ancient times. It was one of the main sources of delicious meat and quality wool. Sheep are of coarse-wooled and fine-wooled breeds. For a long time, the primacy in the breeding of coarse-wooled sheep belongs to Great Britain, and fine-wool merino sheep to Spain.

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Prehistoric facts. Neolithic 8-3 thousand years BC The first woolen yarn, braided and woven products from it date back to the end of the Stone Age - at the time when giant mammoths and rock bears lived. These items were found by archaeologists on the ruins of an ancient settlement on the shores of Lake Switzerland. 4200 BC The fact of raising sheep is celebrated in the Euphrates Valley in Mesopotamia.

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A piece of woolen cloth was found in the mounds on the Oka River, which ended up in the ground no later than 1000 BC. Our ancestors used to shear sheep with spring-loaded shears, which did not differ much from modern ones, intended for the same purpose. They were forged from one strip of metal, the handle was bent in an arc. Slavic blacksmiths knew how to make self-sharpening blades that were not dull when working.

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For the manufacture of outerwear in Russia, sheepskin broadcloths were widely used. From the message of the chronicle under the year 1425, it can be seen that products made of such cloth - sermyagi - were the most widespread clothing of the general population ("all byahu in sermyagi"). Thin cloth, called skurlatny or skorlatny, came from abroad and was very expensive. In 1712, the tsar issued a decree, which instructed "to multiply the cloth factory in more than one place, so that in five years not to buy an overseas uniform." New cloth establishments were opened in 1718 and 1720, moreover, in the decree of Peter I of 1720, it was advised that the "kumpaniya" of merchants pay attention to the decoration of cloth; the fact that the Russian people have already learned to spin and weave, but "dyeing, and polishing, and ironing, and squeezing cloth, trimming, nap is not yet common." The decree, an excerpt from which is given here, was the first printed decree on the development of the production of woolen fabrics in Russia. The manufactory of 1720 was named "Bolshoy Sukonnaya Dvor", in 1729 it had 130 weaving mills and employed 730 people.

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Felting is an ancient textile art that is now experiencing a rebirth, in many ways turning from a vital craft into a vivid form of artistic expression. The history of felting goes back centuries. The first felts were found on the territory of modern Anatolia, they date back to the 3rd millennium BC. the only material from which felt can be made is wool, and the best is sheep wool

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Kashmir is the finest down of alpine goats, mainly found in Tibet and the adjacent regions of China and Mongolia. "Wool diamond", "soft gold of Asia", "royal yarn", "precious thread" ... Oh, Kashmir! Refined and chic, ageless and trendy, sophisticated and fairly expensive!

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Angora goats are an ancient breed of woolly goats. Since ancient times, Angora goats have been bred for their wonderful wool, which is called "mohair" (from the Arabic word for "chosen one"). Sweaters, cardigans, stoles, coats and accessories are knitted from mohair obtained from two-year-old goats (fineness 27-30 microns): hats, scarves, mittens, socks. Coarser mohair and its blends are used to make carpets, rugs, blankets, upholstery, plush toys, wigs, slippers, and other soft shoes.

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Angora - Angora rabbit fluff and nobody else! Do not believe the labels that say "angora" if you have spiky hair in your hands with hairs sticking out in all directions! This is another attempt to confuse the terms and pass off coarse hair of angora goats for angora. It's hard not to recognize a real angora - soft, fluffy, tender!

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For a long time in the East, camel hair was considered sacred, its presence in the house brought happiness and good luck, under pain of death it was forbidden even to step on it. Camel wool is obtained only from non-working animals. The camel family is very ancient.

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The coat of a llama consists of two layers: a coarse outer layer and a softer inner layer. It is used to make rough rugs, blankets, ropes and carpets. The alpaca (lama pacos) is a species of llama that was domesticated about 6,000 years ago and has been bred for wool ever since. An alpaca is smaller in size than a domestic llama. Its height is no more than 1 m, its weight is about 70 kg. The colors are very diverse: white, cream, all shades of brown, gray, black, etc. Archaeologists have discovered in one of the ritual burials of the Incas mummified remains of an alpaca, the fineness of which surpassed all species known today. Lama (lama glama) is a large, strong animal with a long neck, large sad eyes with long eyelashes and protruding ears

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Natural silk is one of the stunning wonders of nature. According to an ancient Chinese legend, once in 2640 BC, Princess Shi Lin-tzu was sitting under a mulberry tree when suddenly a silkworm cocoon fell into her cup of tea. And when she tried to pull him out, she noticed that he began to unwind in the hot liquid. The princess gave one end of the thread to her maid and told her to move away. The maid went out of the princess's chambers into the courtyard, then passed the palace gates, and only when she was half a mile away from the Forbidden City, the thread ended.

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Silk is a natural protein fiber produced by the caterpillar of a nondescript-looking butterfly, the silkworm (Bombix mori). The caterpillar looks very impressive: its body length is about 8 cm, its thickness is about 1 cm, and its weight is 3-5 g. When releasing a thread, the caterpillar quickly turns its head. Each turn requires 4 cm of silk thread, and the whole cocoon takes from 800 m to 1 km, and sometimes more! As many as twenty-four thousand times the caterpillar must shake its head to cocoon. It takes about 4 days to make a cocoon. After finishing work, the exhausted caterpillar falls asleep in its silk cradle and turns into a chrysalis there. The silkworm butterfly does not shine with special beauty. The color of its plump shaggy body is either white with a light creamy pattern, or dark grayish brown.

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Silk production. Cocoons are collected and sent to factories. A small part of the cocoons are left alive - later butterflies are born from them, which lay eggs. Most cocoons are killed by hot steam or ultra-high frequency electromagnetic fields. In a few seconds, the pupae inside the cocoon heat up to 80-90ºC. This must be done before the birth of the butterfly, which, hatching from the cocoon, gnaws at it, damaging the thread. To soften the cocoon, it is thrown into hot water, then washed and unwound on special machines.

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The color palette of cocoons is moderately diverse and consists of cream, beige, brown and golden shades. These beauties are less skilled spinners - the silk from which they build a cocoon, rough to the touch and not as shiny as usual. It is difficult to dye and often requires spinning rather than unwinding, since it consists not of a long thread, but of shorter dangling silk threads. Wild silk It turns out that silk is able to spin not only ordinary-looking Bombyx mori moths, but also luxurious peacock eyes (Antheraea) from the Saturnadea family.

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The history of silk production in Russia There was no silk production in Russia for a very long time, therefore silk fabrics were not made in home production. Naturally, attempts to establish their own production of brocade and velvet began long ago, back in the 16th century. Byzantine and Italian craftsmen took part in setting up the first production facilities. In 1740, there were 26 silk weaving and one reed manufactory in Moscow. Silk establishments that opened in Nizhny Novgorod, Petersburg and Yaroslavl usually did not last long and fell apart. At this time, the first silk-weaving establishments appeared in Astrakhan, and later in Moscow, which became another center of the silk industry. In the pre-reform period, the role of the second center of silk weaving was transferred to St. Petersburg, since all Astrakhan factories were closed. Russian silk fabrics impressed visitors at the 1851 World Exhibition in London, with brocade and furniture fabrics making the greatest impression. The products of 20 silk-weaving factories were presented at the Russian Industrial Exhibition in 1853.

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The virtues of silk. Shine. Natural silk has a unique shine that does not fade over the years. Ease. Silk is so light that for 1 kg of finished fabric there are from 300 to 900 kilometers of thread. Softness. Tenderness, smoothness, pleasant touch. Low thermal conductivity and good breathability. Silk clothing is pleasant to wear at any time of the year, as it warms up in cold weather, and creates a feeling of coolness in hot weather. Durability and elasticity. Silk fiber, being very thin, has exceptional durability. Good drape. This property makes it possible to use silk not only to create clothes of almost any shape, but also for curtains, bed linen and other home furnishings.

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sources http://www.katiagreen.ru http://fachionbook.ru http://www.materiamoda.ru Akhmetshin N.Kh. "Tfyny of the Silk Road" M. 2002

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COTTON

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Cotton is a tree-shaped annual plant. It grows as a bush, fruits are capsules containing seeds covered with long hairs. These fibers are called cotton or "white gold".

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Cotton fiber is a single plant cell that develops from the skin of a cotton seed after flowering. Cotton seeds are enclosed in a fruit box, which, upon reaching full maturity, opens, and the seeds come out together with the cotton, after which the cotton is immediately harvested and processed.

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Cotton is the oldest spinning plant, whose homeland is India. It was grown in the Indus and Ganges valleys on the East coast of the Indian subcontinent and the Deccan plateau on extensive plantations

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fabrics

Ivan Tames was the first to produce cotton fabrics in Russia in the 172s. The Russified Dutchman had a linen establishment in Moscow. By the end of the 18th century, cotton production spread to the Tver, Ivanovo, Vladimir and Moscow regions. The rival era of flax and cotton began, in which cotton fabrics took the leading position.

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Cotton properties

Cotton is characterized by a relatively high strength, chemical resistance (it does not deteriorate for a long time under the influence of water and light), heat resistance (130-140 ° C), medium hygroscopicity (18-20%) and a small proportion of elastic deformation, as a result of which cotton products strongly crumpled. The abrasion resistance of cotton is low. Advantages: Softness Good absorbency in warm weather Ease of coloring Disadvantages: Easy to wrinkle Has a tendency to shrink Turns yellow in the light

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TYPES OF FABRICS

Cotton fabrics are divided into two main types: household and technical. Household fabrics are intended for sewing clothes, and you can also find decorative fabrics used for the manufacture of curtains and furniture upholstery. Cotton fabrics can be of various widths: 80, 90, 140 and 160 cm Summer fleece blankets, tablecloths, bedspreads and gauze are also made from cotton. Technical fabrics can be used for packaging and packaging.

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The bike is a dense soft fabric with a thick pile. It is used in making light blankets, pajamas, warm underwear and home clothes. Flannel is a soft fabric. Has a double-sided fleece. Pajamas, underwear, women's dressing gowns, baby clothes and diapers are sewn from flannel. ... Bumazeya is a fabric with a one-sided pile, usually on the seamy side. They sew children's clothes and women's dresses from bumazey.

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Corduroy is a fairly dense fabric. On the front surface it has longitudinal ribs from light coats, suits, skirts, trousers and men's shirts. Corduroy with a rib more than 5 mm is called corduroy cord, and with a narrow one - corduroy scar Velvet is a soft fabric. There is a thick pile on the front side. It is used in sewing jackets, trousers, women's dresses, as well as in interior decoration and curtains production.

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Waffle fabric is a fabric with an original weave, visually reminiscent of waffles. Possesses good absorbency properties. Therefore, it has received its application in the manufacture of towels. Calico is a dense unusual fabric. Its warp threads are much thinner than weft threads. They sew overalls from coarse calico, men's and bed linen. Satino has a shiny and smooth face. Goes into sewing men's underwear, shirts, women's and children's dresses. Chintz, wrinkled chintz - fabric with a printed variegated pattern of plain weave. Goes to sewing shirts, light dresses for children and women.

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LINEN

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Flax is a herbaceous annual plant from the flax family. This is one of the most important industrial crops. In our country, two forms of flax are grown: fiber flax, which contains flax fiber in the stems, and oil flax, which has a lot of fatty oil in its seeds. Flax growing is the plant growing industry that grows flax. Fiber flax forms a straight, thin, branching at the top of the stem 60-160 cm high.

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Fiber flax is a very ancient culture. In the X-XIII centuries. Fiber flax became the main spinning plant in Russia. The trade in flax fiber and linen fabrics developed, its centers in the XIII-XVI centuries. steel Pskov and Novgorod. Later, fiber flax began to grow almost throughout the Non-Black Earth Zone of Russia. Flax is the most ancient cultivated plant after wheat.

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Flax harvesting

Since time immemorial, the center of linen production has been the vicinity of the city of Yaroslavl, especially the village of Veliky, as well as the Pskov and Vladimir provinces, where flax was sown and processed in large quantities.

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Linen was removed only in dry weather, knitted in sheaves

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Flax cracker.

In order to separate the remnants of the bone from the fiber and to achieve proper separation of the fibers, immediately after crumpling the flax was ruffled.

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Combed flax

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Folk spinning

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Folk weaving

Russian silk in the old days was called thin linen fabrics, which were able to weave only in Russia.

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Modern weaving

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Flaxseed fiber applications

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Internet resources

http://dic.academic.ru/dic.nsf/enc_colier/6915/COTTON http://www.valleyflora.ru/hlopok.html http://dic.academic.ru/dic.nsf/brokgauz_efron/60538/ Len http://www.valleyflora.ru/len.html Pictures http://conceptiobiznes.ru/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/hlopok.jpg http://world.fedpress.ru/sites/fedpress/ files / vladimir_vladimirovich / news / hlopok.jpeg http://royalfabrics.ru/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/velvet1.jpg http://blog.textiletorg.ru/wp-content/uploads/2012/ 06 / velvet.jpg http://www.conkorde.ru/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/hlopok.jpg http://images.yandex.ru/yandsearch?p=1&text=%D1%82%D0 % BA% D0% B0% D0% BD% D1% 8C% 20% D1% 85% D0% BB% D0% BE% D0% BF% D0% BE% D0% BA% 20% D1% 84% D0% BE % D1% 82% D0% BE & pos = 37 & rpt = simage & img_url = http% 3A% 2F% 2Fwww.timira.ru% 2Fgallery% 2Ftkani.jpg http://cdn.gollos.com/files/6785/Anonymous.jpg http: / /images.yandex.ru/yandsearch?p=1&text=%D0%BB%D0%B5%D0%BD&pos=45&rpt=simage&img_url=http%3A%2F%2Fslavlen.com%2Fd%2F45545%2Fd%2F003..jpeg http://images.yandex.ru/yandsearch?text=%D0%BB%D0%B5%D 0% BD & pos = 25 & rpt = simage & img_url = http% 3A% 2F% 2Fwww.vitbichi.by% 2Fwp-content% 2Fuploads% 2F2010% 2F08% 2Fw690-300x225.jpg http://images.yandex.ru/yandsearch?p=3&text =% D0% BB% D0% B5% D0% BD & pos = 108 & rpt = simage & img_url = http% 3A% 2F% 2Fimages.prom.ua% 2F2229010_w100_h100_lno_volokno.jpg

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